Cusco: Inca Seat of Power, Spanish Capital, Eco Tourism Mecca

July 15, 2018 by Troy Colbert in Food, Museums, Travel, Peru, Colonial Architecture, Blog, Cusco, Andes, Inca

Cusco, Peru: From Inca Capital to Ground Zero for Peruvian Eco Tourism

I wasn't sure what to expect about Cusco, Peru. I knew it was in the mountains and that altitude sickness was a real possibility. I knew it was the jump off point to go to Machu Picchu. I had read guidebooks and done some online research, but none of it prepared me for what turned out to be one of the most interesting places I've ever visited.

Cusco is a city of about a half a million people. We land at night and the first thing I notice when we step outside is that it's cold! Lima is on the coast so they don't really have cold weather, but Cusco is at 11,000 feet and the clear air doesn't hold the heat of the day at all. We're told that in the winter the days can get up into the 90's (again, thin air) and it will drop below freezing that night.

Being in a new city is always very exciting for me. I've traveled enough to understand allowing the new place to reveal itself. The trip from the airport takes us through the more modern part of Cusco into the older section in the center of town. We are staying in the San Blas area which sits above the main downtown area. The cobblestone streets get very narrow, VERY steep, and the buildings are smaller and older. San Blas is known as the barrio de los artesanos or the "artisans' quarter". There are lots of small boutiques, restaurants, cafes, and hostels all over the area. We're staying in a rental house that's owned by a small, boutique hotel next door. It's rustic and has a fireplace to take care of the winter chill. The view down into Cusco is spectacular.

We've decided to spend our first day in Cusco acclimating ourselves to the altitude. I don't know if it's because I live at 3,500 feet or because I've been sucking on coca candy for two days, but fortunately for me I never experience a single moment of altitude sickness but I see people walking around town obviously gutting it out.

The main plaza in Cusco is overlooked by the Roman Catholic Cathedral. It serves as the centerpoint of the old part of town on the Plaza de Armas. Like Lima they are having a festival with parades of people from the surrounding area in colorful outfits and costumes.

Catedral del Cusco

Festival Participants

Getting Ready for the Parade

The Interior Courtyard of the Church of Santo Domingo/Qorikancha

When the Spanish came, took over Cusco, and made it their Capital, the Inca already had a thriving city in place. Of course the Spanish were out to save the souls of the "heathen" native population so they built lots of churches. From my rented house I can count six Roman Catholic churches -- and those are just the churches I can see. The Spanish would oftentimes simply build on top of the Inca temple already in place. A prime example of this is two blocks from the Plaza de Armas in central Cusco. Santo Domingo Church was built on top of and next to Qorikancha, the Inca Temple of the Sun. Today it's a fascinating place to visit. The temple and church sit side by side and you can see how the Spanish used the already established Inca religious traditions to further Christianity. Inside you will see how the structure was constructed to allow the sun to come through the windows (very important on the two yearly solstices). There is also an art gallery of (mainly religious) paintings from the Cusco School, a modern art gallery, large outside gardens, a traditional Spanish courtyard, and exhibits on Inca astronomy and the Inca Seqe System of Cusco with Qorikancha at the center and different seqes or lines radiating from it connecting over 360 wakas or Inca sacred places.

The food scene in Cusco is very diverse. You obviously have dozens of restaurants to cater to the scores of visitors that come through Cusco. One thing I found enlightening is the number of vegan restaurants in Cusco. I guess if you think about it eco tourists might be slightly more inclined to eat a plant based diet, but restaurants don't stay in business without customers. There's something about the people coming through Cusco that make it worthwhile to serve vegan.

We found a great place right off the Plaza de Armas called Greens Organic. They have their own farm and work with local producers to supply all of the restaurant's ingredients. The menu was diverse, the prices were not rock bottom but weren't unreasonable, and the food tasted amazing! We had a fried local cheese with mango salsa, and I had a delicious African Curry dish. I also tried a Peruvian specialty, Chicha Morada or purple corn juice. It. Was. Fantastic!! The purple corn is cooked with fruits like apple and pineapple, plus cinnamon, cloves, and sugar. It's sweet and earthy and completely delicious.

Fried Local Cheese with Mango Salsa

African Curry

Chicha Morada!!

We also found a tiny pizza place where the owner had built his own wood fired pizza oven and had it right in the dining room (he and his family lived upstairs). The pizza was very tasty! Local ingredients again were the key.

Another fun place was Paddy's Irish Pub. It has the distinction of being the highest Irish owned pub in the world! I had one of the better shepherd's pies I've ever had anywhere (including Ireland) and a Cusquena, the most popular Peruvian beer. You can't beat an Irish pub for a laid back, great time.

Breakfast every day was at the hotel next to us. Two sweet ladies put out a breakfast buffet every morning with fruit, juices, freshly baked bread, cereals and superfoods like chia seeds, and eggs cooked to order. The local eggs and milk were so much better than what I'm used to finding in the States, and the Peruvian coffee was spectacular.

While I wasn't sure what to expect from Cusco it turned out to be one of my favorite places I've visited. I definitely will return to see more of Cusco and the surrounding area.

Next. On to the Sacred Valley and the Inca ruins at Ollantaytambo!

The Skyline in Miraflores from My Balcony

Lima Peru: My First Foray Into South America (But Not My Last!)

July 06, 2018 by Troy Colbert in Blog, Food, Museums, Travel, South America, Peru, Lima, Colonial Architecture

Art on Building in Lima

Street Mural in Lima

Street Mural Art in Lima

Peru. Land of the Inca. Home to ceviche, the Sacred Valley, alpacas, and the pisco sour.

Full disclosure. Peru was not on my radar to visit. I always figured my first time in South America would be in Argentina or Brazil. But that's the beauty about travel. Sometimes an opportunity presents itself to go somewhere and you just gotta jump. I have a friend whose son is in Peru on a mission trip, and while he is off building a school and playing soccer with the local kids, his mom wanted to be in the country seeing the sights. She asked for folks to come with her and I happily agreed.

We'll split our time between the Capital of Lima and Cusco, the gateway to the Sacred Valley. While Machu Picchu is close to Cusco it's not in the cards for me. Logistics and time just don't make it possible.

In any case, it's another opportunity to visit a different country and a different culture and I couldn't be more excited.

Lima: The City of Kings

We land in Lima very close to midnight and make our way to where we are staying in the District of Miraflores along the Pacific Ocean. Because it sits in the Southern Hemisphere it is early winter in Lima. What that means is that the city is in a kind of permanent "gloom" -- cloud cover that never really lifts but without any rain. It's a pity because I'm sure Lima is beautiful in the sunshine. Unfortunately we don't have that experience.

Lima is a city of 11 million people and is broken into districts. Miraflores is the most international district. Most foreigners stay here. The majority of the fine dining restaurants are here. It's the best place to locate. Barranco is where you'll find the artists, the musicians, the authors, and the cool kids. The Central District or "El Centro" is home to the Government Palace, the Cathedral of Lima, and the oldest house in South America. I'll visit all three as well as the Larco Museum in the Pueblo Libre district.

Miraflores & Barranco

View of the Pacific Ocean from Larcomar

Holy Cross Parish

The Park of the Cross

Day one starts with a very short bicycle tour. It would have been longer but in all honesty I was not prepared for it. The bicycle I had was uncomfortable, not very well maintained, and all I was doing was trying not to die in Lima's traffic. I saw the Pacific from atop the Larcomar Market and the Park of the Cross before I sent my traveling companions on their way with the guide and went on foot through Barranco.

The Park of the Cross was the first place the Spanish landed in what would become Lima. Legend has it that the sailors saw a cross high on the bluff and when they reached the spot it was gone. They raised a cross of their own on the spot and it has been there since. The church next door is being renovated and has an interesting history. The story is that there was a priest who treated the native people very cruely. During one of the frequent earthquakes that occur in Lima he was in the front garden of the church when the church bell fell from the belltower and decapitated him. Talk about divine intervention!

If Peru has a national dish it is more than likely ceviche, the combination of raw fish, citrus juice, onion, and chili pepper is served throughout the country. On my walk through Barranco I was able to find some delicious ceviche at a small place called Barra Mar. The fish was ultra fresh, and the lime juice, onion, and pepper gave it a tart, spicy flavor that was addictive! I also was lucky to find a great craft brewery the Barranco Beer Company. The IPA was sweeter than any IPA I've had in the US. Their Pale-X was a fantastic rye based ale.

Ceviche

Craft Beer Menu at Barranco Beer Co.

Beer Flight at Barranco Beer Company

Day two in Lima. We are having lunch at Maido, the #8 ranked best restaurant in the world but before that I am going to take in the Larco Museum in the Pueblo Libre District.

Museo Arqueológico Rafael Larco Herrera

The Most Complete Set of Solid Gold Ceremonial Regalia in the World

What started with a gift of around 600 ceramic pieces has grown into one of, if not the best museum of pre-Columbian art in the world. The museum is broken down into four areas: North Coast, Center, South, and Highlands Cultures. There are ceramics, textiles, metalwork pieces, and a storage area with thousands of pieces catalogued. If it weren't for this museum many if not all these pieces of history would have been taken, sold, and never seen again.

I have been fascinated by this kind of art since I saw the new, world art exhibit at the Louvre in January. What it shows me is that ancient peoples of the world are all connected. The art of pre-Columbian Peru looks like totem pole art in North America and pieces I've seen from Polynesia and Africa.

The animal imagery in the pieces represented the three areas the pre-Columbian peoples considered divine: the sky (where the sun is, represented by the owl and eagle), the ground (where people are, represented by the cat and frog), and underground (where crops grew from, represented by the snake and spider).

Something else I found interesting is that, while most of the pieces were functional, the people who had them used them mostly for decoration in their homes. They were the original knick-knacks!

The grounds themselves were lovely as well with bougainvillea and bottle brush trees blooming and several varieties of cactus I hadn't seen before.

Maido: Peruvian/Japanese Fusion at One of the World's Top Restaurants.

Nikkei is a word with multiple meanings, one of which describes the Japanese global diaspora. In the late 19th century thousands of Japanese came to Peru to work on two year contracts. Lots of them decided to stay and the two cultures have become intertwined. Chef Mitsuharu "Micha" Tsumura has taken his heritage -- born in Lima to Japanese parents -- and in Maido has created a restaurant that fuzes Peruvian ingredients with Japanese techniques into something he calls "The Nikkei Experience". In 2017 Maido was voted the top restaurant in Latin America and the #8 restaurant in the world. When I decided to book the trip to Peru a visit to Maido was on my "must do" list.

The atmosphere in Maido is minimalist and fairly familiar of other sushi restaurants I've been to. Wooden tables and chairs throughout with staff hustling around in a very efficient manner. One detail that was pretty cool is above the diners heads. Ropes descend from the ceiling many stained red. When viewed from opposite sides of the restaurant the ropes look like either the Japanese or Peruvian flag.

The Nikkei Experience lunch is a small plate of three "amuse bouches", eight small plates of food, and two desserts. Japanese and Peruvian cuisines are very compatible with each other. The fact that both rely very heavily on seafood from the Pacific Ocean is one of the reasons Chef Micha's menu works so well. Each dish was unique. Even dishes that had ingredients that were familiar to me were given a new twist. The ceviche was insanely fresh and perfectly spiced, the fish stew with yuca and amazing Peruvian yellow pepper was a barrage of flavors, the short rib is cooked for an astounding 50 hours and melts in your mouth, and the uni rice topped with even more uni was over-the-top decadent. The liquid nitrogen frozen tofu cheesecake "ice cream" was tasty and fun, and the granita served with a chocolate shell filled with the different kinds of cacao and nibs was served in a bowl made from sugar and was visually stunning. The entire meal was a delight and it was very cool to enjoy the Peruvian ingredients done in such a clever Japanese way.

I have been fortunate to have eaten in some outrageously good restaurants, and Chef Micha and the staff at Maido can be very proud of their place among the best places in the world.

Amuse Bouches

Ceviche

Pork Belly Bun

Fish Stew with Peruvian Yellow Pepper Broth

Cuy

Toro, White Tuna with Uni, Beef Tongue

Cod with Hazlenuts

50 Hour Short Rib

Sea Urchin Rice Topped with Sea Urchin

Tofu Cheesecake "Ice Cream"

Granita and Cacao with Nibs

Central Lima: The Church, The State, The People, and the Oldest House in South America.

Government Palace

Cathedral In Lima

Cathedral Interior

Festival de Patron Procession

Festival Parade Participants

Pizarro arrived in the land now known as Peru with less than 200 conquistadors in 1531. While they didn't have a lot of men, they did have four main things the native Inca (population 12 million) didn't have: guns, horses, the wheel, and an immunity to smallpox. It didn't take the Spanish long to manipulate their way into being in charge.

The Spanish set up in the Inca capital of Cusco. They helped orchestrate a civil war between Inca factions and then executed Atahualpa for his brothers death, thus completing their coup d'état.

In 1535 Pizarro founded the city of Lima as the Capital of what would become the Viceroyalty of Peru. It was from here that the Viceroys would rule Peru until 1824.

Casa de Aliaga: The Oldest Colonial House in South America

Street Entrance of Casa de Aliaga. Photo Courtesy of Trip Advisor

Interior Patio of Casa de Aliaga

Beautiful Interior of Casa de Aliaga

Detail of Imported Tile

Senor Aliaga's Sword

Each Room Has A Unique Ceiling Pattern

Antique Bed

Stunning Detail Throughout the House

The Aliaga Family Chapel

Pizarro had a friend named Jeronimo de Aliaga y Ramirez who came with him to Peru. He gifted him land to build a house and it has remained in the Aliaga Family since 1535. Throughout history the family has seen politicians and diplomats, and has remained one of the leading families on Peru.

At one point there were tunnels connecting the house to the Cathedral, the Government House, and the nearby convent.The house itself is still used by the Aliaga family today. There are two apartments inside the house the family uses as well as the dining room and chapel. It really is a lovely example of colonial architecture and the family has done a magnificent job of preserving it.

So my stay in Lima was really something. It was fascinating to be in such a big city that felt more like a lot of smaller cities. I would love to return in their Summer to see the city when the sun is shining and the beaches are full. The people I met were very warm and friendly. I'd love to see more of Miraflores and Barranco and try some more Peruvian food!

Next I flew to Cusco to learn more about the Inca and to experience the Andes at an elevation of over 11,000 feet!

My Paris Highlights: Where to Eat & Drink.

May 29, 2018 by Troy Colbert in Food, Paris, Blog, Travel, Wine

Paris is obviously one of my favorite cities in the entire world. There is so much to see and do. Despite their reputation, Parisians are some of the warmest, helpful, people I have ever encountered. It is no wonder that artists, poets, authors, brigands, scoundrels, lovers, and citizens of the world have found their way to Paris for centuries. It is truly The City of Lights.

There are places I found on my recent trip that I wanted to share with everyone because they made my trip so much better, and I want other to enjoy them as much as I did.

Where to Eat

C hez L'Ami Jean

Chef Stéphane Jego's nose-to-tail restaurant is a small, high-energy place on the Left Bank in between des Invalides and Champ de Mars. Although the restaurant may be small, there are no small portions at L'Ami Jean. Chef Jego uses every part of an animal he brings into the restaurant. He also goes out of his way to make sure that two people who order the same dish experience it in different ways.

The menu changes constantly so it's a place to return to often. Save room for the rice pudding. It's his mother's recipe and it is unbelievable!

House Made Saucisson

House Made Pate

Sauteed Sweetbreads, Beet Consomme

Rice Pudding

Brutos

Another recommendation from my friend Wendy Lyn pays off in a huge way! Lucas Baur de Campos and Ninon Leconte have opened a fantastic place that is now among my favorite places to eat anywhere in the world.

Chef Lucas Baur de Campos on the Pass at Brutos in Paris. Photo Courtesy of Brutos

Lucas and Ninon are from Southern Brazil, and their restaurant uses a real wood fire BBQ to cook delicious meat, chicken, and fish. They then pair these with sauces that harken back to their home, and smaller plates that use local ingredients to create an atmosphere that is more like eating in a close friend's kitchen than a restaurant in Paris.

The night I went the menu had some very interesting dishes. I went mostly seafood, but Lucas made sure I got a sampling of everything good on the menu. Ninon was right on time with her recommendations on food as well as their selection of natural wines.

Crab Pastilles

Grilled Dorado with Butter Sauce

Beef Marrow on Mashed Potato

More Amazing French Cheese

45 Day Aged Cote de Boeuf

Every bite was delicious. The menu changes frequently to reflect what is fresh and in season. Lucas and Ninon are so warm and friendly, you can tell they put their hearts and souls into Brutos. I will make it a point to return every time I'm in town!

Marche des Enfants Rouge

The oldest covered market in Paris is in the Marais (now you know why I recommend staying there!). It has stall after stall of gorgeous produce, meats & cheeses, seafood, flowers, baked goods, and food stalls that serve everything from vegan food to one of the best sandwiches in the world.

The market is worth strolling through even if you aren't in the mood to eat anything. Trust me, you'll find SOMETHING to tempt you!

25-50 Wine Latitude

I always like finding places where locals hang out when I travel. 25-50 Wine Latitude is one of those places. Mark the owner has created a place where locals feel comfortable coming in and buying a bottle of something he's found or sitting at the bar itself and drinking glasses of what he opens on a particular day. I went back a couple of times and Mark was happy to discuss French and German wines (he has dual citizenship) as well as American wines (he spent several year here, mainly in N. California). If you look at 25-50s Facebook Page or the Google reviews you'll see that on the night of the terrorist attack at the Bataclan Music Hall (right around the corner from 25-50) Mark kept 25-50 open as a safe place for people to congregate and decompress. So not only does he sell amazing wine, he's a good guy as well. More than enough reason to frequent his place.

Hanging with Pablo and Eating Like a Local in Paris

February 26, 2018 by Troy Colbert in Paris, Wine, Food, Travel, Pastries, Blog, Chocolate

As I've mentioned before, one of the biggest mistakes I think people make when they travel is they fall into the trap of, "I may never get back here so I have to do EVERYTHING!" Their trip becomes one museum/tour/famous landmark after another, and they never really spend any time experiencing the city they're in.

People have come to Paris for hundreds of years and never stepped foot inside any famous landmark and had an incredible time. Frankly, if you came to Paris and only did five things -- drink wine, eat baked goods, eat cheese, sit in a cafe, and drink coffee -- that's a successful trip to Paris. I was determined to strike a good balance between "famous sites" and "local experiences" on this trip.

Blé Sucré

When I hear on good authority that there is a shop that makes a croissant that takes two days to make I have to go right?! Once again my friend Wendy Lyn comes through with the 411 on Blé Sucré,

The case of beautiful pastries at Blé Sucré. Photo courtesy of Tal Schultz.

Located in the 12th arrondissement -- and just two quick Metro stops away from my flat -- Blé Sucré is one of the neighborhood gems you can find all over Paris. As I enter the smell of baking bread and other goodies hits me. It's remarkable. The cases are full of gorgeous pastries and breads.

As much as I'm tempted to buy one of everything and end up in some sort of happy pastry coma, I am on a mission. I need to have a croissant...and maybe something else.

I end up with a croissant, a pain au chocolate, and a beautiful mini tarte tatin. Yeah I know. Give me a break, I'm on vacation.

Croissant, Pain au Chocolate, Tarte Tatin at Blé Sucré

Sheer bliss. The croissant is buttery, flaky, and perfectly made. The pain au chocolate is wonderfully decadent -- the quality of the chocolate is off the chain! The tarte tatin is really something. Flaky pastry base topped with a tart apple and drenched in caramel. I am so envious of people who can bake on this level.

I thoroughly enjoy my breakfast and decide to put the carbs and caffeine to good use and enjoy the 'Marais Walk" Rick Steves lays out in his Paris travel guide. It starts at the Place de la Bastille -- one block away from Blé Sucré -- and incorporates my next stop, the Musée Picasso. Two miles and two to three hours of walking will do me good.

Musée Picasso

Exhibition Poster for Picasso 1932. Image courtesy of the Picasso Museum.

Pablo Picasso (1881-1973) was probably the 20th century's most famous artist. He worked in many styles and across different media. You don't have to study Picasso very long to notice his very unique way of expression.

The museum itself is housed in the Hôtel Salé, a home built in the mid-1600's. Picasso was a working artist and owned many of the works he completed. His family also had a lot of his work and under French law, could donate the significant artwork in lieu of paying taxes. Therefore, the museum has over 5,000 pieces of Picasso's work including many on paper, ceramics, wood, and metal in addition to his paintings.

Lots of locals patronize the museum, and one of the things I like about the museum is it isn't set up to be a "greatest hits" venue. They have exhibitions throughout the year that highlight a certain aspect of Picasso's career or a specific time. The exhibition when I was there was Picasso 1932: An Erotic Year. From the Picasso Museum website:

“On the 15th of June 1932, Pablo Picasso makes the news: Tériade publishes an interview with the artist in the French newspaper l’Intransigeant, when the retrospective of his work was set to open at the Georges Petit gallery. As the critic introduces the artist by announcing « You will discover the expression of some of his ideas which are not only those of a painter, but also those of a man. », Picasso releases one of his most famous statements: « The art we make is a way of holding our newspaper. »

Both statements refer to the human and biographic dimension of Picasso’s work which will, indeed, become increasingly significant that year (1932). The artist, now face to face with thirty years of his own work, integrates the necessity to document his work day by day, by dating his paintings, sculptures, drawings and engravings. A procedure that leads to his capacity to keep a record of the most essential until the most modest traces of his exceptional life.”

1932 was also the year that Picasso's ongoing affair with muse Marie-Thèrése Walter was near its zenith. He had met her in 1927 coming out of a local department store and supposedly said to her, "You have an interesting face. I would like to create a portrait of you. I feel we are going to do great things together. I am Picasso." Clearly, Picasso had no inferiority complex.

Marie-Thèrése would become his muse and lover, give birth to his first daughter, and inspire Picasso to create some of his more famous works.

There were also several pictures of Dora Maar highlighted in the museum. Maar was Picasso's lover and muse after Marie-Thèrése. Maar was a surrealist and a well-known photographer. Dark haired and striking, Maar was very different than the blonde, curvy, Walter. Maar would be with Picasso through WWII and also become a major influence on his work during that time.

One of the more fascinating things about the museum's collection is how many of Picasso's ordinary, day-to-day things there are. I really enjoyed looking at items like handwritten lists of people he wanted to invite to a Christmas party; ticket stubs from a boxing match; photos of Picasso on holiday; and his horse who he had stuffed (Just kidding. That was Napoleon). What you realize is that, while he may have been an artistic genius, he was in many ways a regular guy.

I thoroughly enjoyed the Picasso Museum. It's definitely a place I can see myself returning to on future Paris visits.

Breizh Café Creperie

Crepes are iconic in France. The word crepe is French for pancake and they originated in the Brittany region in the northwestern part of the country where they were traditionally made from buckwheat flour.

There are dozens of crêperies throughout the city, but one name kept popping up when I looked into going somewhere -- Breizh Café. Conveniently located very close to the Picasso Museum, Breizh Café was the perfect place to have lunch.

Breizh Café, much like most of the restaurants I encounter on my trip, is small. They get the most out of their space by the use of banquettes. I'm shown to my table and check out the menu and the chalkboard for the daily specials. After the sugar rush I got from Blé Sucre earlier I'm going with a savory crepe for lunch. The staff at Breizh Café are friendly and helpful. After inquiring about several different choices I ask my server what he'd recommend. His recommendation is local ham, comté cheese, and a sunny side up egg, all wrapped in a buckwheat crepe and served with the amazing Breton Butter. I'm sold. I order the cheese platter as well because...France...cheese. Breizh Café is also known for their hard apple cider. Of course I have to order this to see how our Western North Carolina Ciders stack up.

Buckwheat Crepé with ham, cheese, and egg.

Cheese Platter -- Breizh Café

Local Hard Cider -- Breizh Cafe

The crepe is outstanding. The buckwheat flour gives it a much nuttier and heartier taste than a white flour crepe. The ham, cheese, egg, and butter are perfect additions. The freshness of all the ingredients sends the flavor level to 11.

I am very impressed with the cider. Not too sweet, not too dry. I love how it's presented in a ceramic pitcher and poured into an actual bowl. You really feel like your eating and drinking the way folks have done it in Brittany for hundreds of years. I've got to say that as fantastic as the cider is, some of the cider I've had in WNC is just as fantastic.

I felt completely at home at Breizh Café. The clientele is a great mix of younger folks, many with kids in tow, older folks, people discussing business, and tourists. Again, this has the feel of a real local joint. Certainly worth a return visit.

Au Passage

“In a happy uproar, Dave Harrison, a young Texan chef and his second Mans Engberg sends small dishes of a beautiful punkitude, arty without headaches. We share fresh plates from the board with friends”

— www.restaurant-aupassage.fr

There has been a movement going on in France for several years now. The "Old" way of cooking and dining is not necessarily considered the "Best" way of doing things by the latest generation of younger chefs. The idea that someone would have to dress up, pay a sizeable amount of money, and spend hours eating a meal, doesn't translate as well for todays younger diners.

Led by chefs like Gregory Marchand at Frenchie, Inaki Aizpitarte at Le Chateaubriand, and Yves Camdeborde at Le comptoir, the idea of this "Bistronomy" movement is to give people dishes made from high quality, local ingredients, at a much more affordable price.

Opened in 2011, Au Passage is a restaurant also on the cutting edge of this new wave of dining. The small-plate, tapas style of service fits beautifully into the idea of giving customers high quality ingredients, prepared with the highest skill, at a reasonable price.

Au Passage is on its third chef since 2011. The M.O. has been for the chef to be there for a few years and then go out on their own. The current occupant of the kitchen is an American! Dave Harrison grew up in the Dallas Metroplex, but spent time honing his culinary skills in Austin. I got to chat with him briefly after service and he is loving the opportunity to cook food his way. It's a great attitude to have. He's young enough to have the energy to cook amazing food from a menu that literally changes every day. There are days when the lunch and dinner menus change based on what is fresh and available.

I arrive and am given a seat at the bar. The atmosphere is busy, with a punk vibe. The patrons are boisterous and the music matches their volume. The menu is very interesting. Because they need to keep their per plate cost lower, Chef Harrison and his fellow kitchen staff use every bit of an animal they get. I decide to try pig ear salad, tripes with XO sauce and black radish, and sautéed duck hearts with roasted brussels sprouts. Each dish was exquisitely prepared. The tripe dish is one of the better things I've eaten in quite awhile. The richness of it was unexpected and the XO sauce was a perfect compliment to the tripes themselves.

Crispy Pig Ear Salad with Lettuce and Mustard

Veal Tripes with XO Sauce, Black Radish and Parsley

Sauteed Duck Hearts with Pan Roasted Brussels Sprouts, Pickled Onion, and Micro Greens

Au Passage has also embraced the Natural Wine Movement. I'll write more about this in a later post but for now just know that "natural" wines are younger, organic, more aggressive, and from wineries who have decided to make their way outside the traditional system. Much like the new wave of restaurants such as Au Passage. I have three different wines to go with the three plates. I rely on the server/bartender to guide me and he doesn't steer me wrong. An acidic white to start that works with the fatty pig ear and tangy mustard. Then two reds, one lighter and one more robust, to go with the tripes and duck hearts. Again, the wines pair really well with the food and bring everything together.

Au Passage Interior

Au Passage Interior -- Bar

Au Passage Chef Dave Harrison

Dessert was a decadent chocolate ganache with olive oil and gray sea salt. It was slight overkill after the richness of the meal itself, but it was well worth it.

Au Passage is a fantastic little place with a great vibe and show-stopping food. The fact that it was literally 50 feet from the front door of the building my flat was in was a bonus. Definitely worth a return the next time I'm in town.

So another eventful day in the books. I enjoyed some world class food, saw famous artwork, and I still have so much more left to do!

Next: The Louvre, the Musée d'Orsay, and the Classic Bistro Experience.

L'Arpege's Iconic Hot Cold Egg. House made bread.

Musée de l'Armée, The Sculptor, and the Best Lunch of My Life.

February 14, 2018 by Troy Colbert

Musée de l'Armée -- All Things Military

The Army Museum contains military weapons, uniforms, and artifacts highlighting French military conflicts. As a history major and a student of European history I was excited about seeing this impressive venue.

It has six major areas. I concentrated on a couple of them. The Contemporary Department that concentrates on the period between 1871-1945 and the Dome des Invalides -- where Napoleon's Tomb is located.

It's possible to spend several hours here to get a full picture. In all honesty looking at a lot of different cannons and medieval armor really isn't my thing. I did find the displays of uniforms and artifacts, not just from France, but from allies and foes alike, fascinating.

Les Invalides

Chapel -- Musée de l'Armée

Dome interior

Tomb of Marshal Ferdinand Foch

US Flag from WWI

Nazi Uniform

Gen. George Patton's Goggles

WWII Uniforms

The Dome des Invalides is beautiful. It houses the Dome Church and the tombs of Napoleon I, French War Hero Ferdinand Foch -- Supreme Allied Commander in WWI, as well as dozens of other French War Heroes. It is modeled after St. Peter's Basilica in Rome.

I thoroughly enjoyed the few hours I spent at the Army Museum. The displays and movies -- especially the section on the holocaust and the death camps -- are very moving.

Rodin Museum -- Looking Inside the Mind of a Genius

The Age of Bronze. Rodin Museum. Paris. Picture taken by Trover

“In a career that spanned the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, Auguste Rodin (French, 1840–1917) was deeply inspired by tradition yet rebelled against its idealized forms, introducing innovative practices that paved the way for modern sculpture. He believed that art should be true to nature, a philosophy that shaped his attitudes to models and materials.

Although Rodin was not educated at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris, the prestigious school for the training of French artists, his focus on the human form and use of various materials such as bronze, marble, plaster, and clay, illustrate his respect for sculptural tradition and his desire to work within the system for commissions and exhibition opportunities. The hallmarks of Rodin’s style—his affinity for the partial figure, his focus on formal qualities and relationships rather than on narrative structure, and his desire to retain the marks of the sculptural process on his finished works—were revolutionary in his time.”

— http://www.rodinmuseum.org

To say I am an art expert is laughable. To say I am an art aficionado is stretching things. The best way to describe my relationship with art is, "I know what I like". I like the work of Auguste Rodin. I like Rodin because he redefined what "sculpture" meant. His works were mocked and ridiculed by the experts and yet, when we look back today we realize his ideas about the human form were revolutionary. Many of the works he did were left unfinished by design. He came from a working-class background and you can see see the reverence he has for people striving in an everyday world.

L'Homme au Nez Cassé (1865). Rodin Museum.

L'Homme au Nez Cassé (1865). Rodin Museum. Shown from Behind to Highlight the Missing Portion.

The museum itself is housed in his former residence. You could spend hours here looking at the various sculptures, sketches, paintings, and models. I enjoyed wandering through the main house and the gardens. One of the things I love most about travel is being able to put into perspective things you've seen pictures of or heard about your entire life.

Most people will immediately say "The Thinker" when asked about their knowledge of Rodin. I admit to doing the same. There is no doubt that Rodin's work "Le Penseur" is universally known. Yes, the figure in the statue is contemplating, but the figure is muscular and rough, not the type generally thought to be a "thinker". It's again the genius of Rodin making the viewer themself re-think their idea of intelligence.

The Burghers of Calais statue in garden of Rodin Museum

I was also captured by the painstaking detail and passion in his work "The Burghers of Calais". Commissioned by the city of Calais in 1884 to commemorate an occurrence during the Hundred Years War between France and England (use the Google machine to look it up if you're interested.) Again what is so striking is that these subjects are not canonized -- although they were heroic -- they are shown with all their flaws. They are literally sculpted larger than life, but they are so...human. I was surprised at how much this piece moved me.

"The Gates of Hell" is another of Rodin's huge masterpieces displayed in the museum's gardens. Commissioned in 1880, Rodin worked on this piece until his death in 1917. Depicting a scene from Dante's Inferno, you can see Dante perched atop the gates looking over his characters. The piece depicts figures from the classic work. Again, the detail is amazing. Walking up to it you get a sense of the time and effort Rodin put into this. I could have spent the better part of an hour just looking at the individual figures in their varying degrees of pain and suffering.

I wasn't able to get to the Rodin Museum in 2006 but I am so glad I made time on this trip. His work is so inspiring and so modern, but with a foot firmly placed in the classical style. Definitely a highlight.

L'Arpege. Photo Courtesy of FoodTalkCentral. www.foodtalkcentral.com

L'Arpege -- My Lunch with Chef Alain Passard

They say you never forget your first time. In this instance, Chef Alain Passard's iconic restaurant L'Arpege is my first. My first three-starred Michelin restaurant. Michelin determines that a restaurant is worthy of their coveted trois étoiles if it has, "exceptional cuisine that is worth a special journey". I assume flying over an ocean qualifies as a special journey.

As soon as I booked my trip I knew I would be dining at L'Arpege. I had seen Chef Alain Passard, his restaurant, and his farms on an episode of Chef's Table:France and I was stunned. Here was a Chef who had achieved the ultimate, three Michelin stars, serving primarily roasted meats. Then all at once he took meat completely off the menu and served nothing but vegetables. The press, critics, and many of his long-time customers were aghast. Surely there would be no way he would keep his stars serving vegetables! Keep them he did, and now, with seafood and some poultry back on the menu, he is enjoying his 22nd consecutive year of the honor.

Chef Passard grows all the vegetables for L'Arpege at one of three farms he maintains outside Paris. Each farm has a unique terroir, so the same vegetable grown at the three locations will have a different taste and character.

I knew I was going to eat in some wonderful places on my trip to Paris, but something about the story, and the way the food looked, and Chef Passard himself, made this my destination meal. I would not be disappointed.

I had done my homework on L'Arpege before I arrived in Paris. I had spoken with my friends Lisa and Matthias who have been several times and got some dishes to ask for. I was prepared. Or so I thought.

I've been to a two-star Michelin restaurant -- The Clove Club in London. It was fantastic. The food was amazing and the service was as well. I wondered what would be different at L'Arpege to elevate it to the tree-star level. I didn't wonder for long.

As soon as you enter everything starts. I went to the host stand and gave my name and at that moment it was like no one else existed for the staff -- even though the restaurant was full and bustling. I was shown to my table, given my menu, and asked my preference for water and any pre-lunch apéritif I might like. I had already decided on the Gardener's Lunch tasting menu and I knew there would be several glasses of wine involved so I declined the apéritif.

My thoughts on wine are the same as my thoughts on art. I know what I like. However, I had decided to just go with the suggestions from the sommelier. I was doing wine by the glass so I could try several things. Because the menu is mainly vegetables I expected more whites, but I ended up with a lovely combination of reds and whites.

Again, I was doing the Gardener's Lunch tasting menu. The menu itself simply said, "This morning, the gardens have blessed us with a pallet of flavors...let yourself be guided by the Chef's improvisation and experience a sensory stroll." I was putting myself in the hands of Chef Passard and his culinary team. I did have a couple of specific dishes based on the recommendations of friends. I knew I wanted Ravioles des Legumes, Onion Gratin, and, because they are in season, scallops.

The first two dishes come one right after another. The first is an amuse bouche of small tarts filled with beet, carrot, and spinach purees. Each one is a tiny flavor bomb. Every table gets these and I realize that this dish has been made en masse meaning it could have been a complete throwaway but it wasn't. I also realize that if this is how the meal is starting, I'm in for something special.

I need to mention that there is a real intimidation factor for me here. I don't want to do something wrong or say something wrong or heaven forbid, use the wrong utensil. This quickly dissipates as the dining room staff is completely warm and welcoming. They move around the dining room effortlessly. No one has an "assigned" table. Every table is a guest of the house and are treated accordingly.

Next dish is the famous Hot-Cold Egg. A coddled egg with sherry vinegar, spices and maple syrup. I have no idea why this works, it just does. The depth of flavor, the contrast of temperatures, the sweet versus acidic notes from the maple syrup and vinegar. It's wonderful. I sit back and contemplate the thought process behind this dish. It's not the last time I'll be contemplative about this meal.

When Chef Passard envisioned his all vegetable menu, I have to believe this next dish is what was in his mind. Ravioles de Legumes is a simple dish of three ravioli, each filled with a different vegetable, in a broth. My ravioli were filled with spinach, beet, and winter squash. Each one was so flavorful, so individualistic. Each vegetable was allowed to shine. The broth on the day I was there was celery based. I wasn't sure what to expect. The danger of cooking with celery is that it's such a strong flavor it can overwhelm everything else in a dish. The depth of flavor in the broth was earth-shattering. I simply could not believe how good this was. On its own the broth would have been one of the best things I had in Paris. When I took a bite of ravioli and broth together it was insane. Everything worked together perfectly. Truly remarkable. This is what I was hoping for when I booked my table.

The next course was the onion gratin. Onions and parmesan cheese perfectly cooked under the broiler. I'm not sure if this is how it was supposed to be eaten but I slathered it on the dark, house made bread. it was heaven.

I'm figuring out why L'Arpege has had three Michelin stars for so long. Everything they do is purposeful. Every dish has been thought through and the ingredients are so good that something as simple as an onion gratin gets elevated to something truly special. It's not that this dish couldn't be done really well at another restaurant. It's that this dish, with these ingredients, is as important to Chef Passard and his kitchen staff as anything on the menu. It separates good from great and great from exceptional.

The courses kept coming, perfectly timed. There was a gorgeous vegetable sushi -- sushi rice with vinegar, mustard, and a slice of beetroot. A pumpkin soup with a savory whipped cream served tableside. A scallop mousse in a seafood foam that blew me away.

Vegetable Sushi with Beetroot

Pumpkin Soup with Savory Whipped Cream

Scallop Mousse with Foam

There was dish of grilled lettuce, beet puree, and green onions in a savory sauce; and beet tartare -- topped with an "egg" of creme fraiche with a gelee "yolk", beetroot leaves, butter lettuce, and parsnip chips that was whimsical and delicious.

Grilled Lettuce with Beet Puree & Green Onions

Beet Tartare

Chef Passard is known for roasting poultry and the bird served the day I was there was capon. I was given the breast with roasted carrots and beets, and whipped potato. Then a dish of Dover sole that made me rethink how fish could be prepared and taste. After that sweet, whole scallops in a velouté and topped with purple radish that nearly brought me to tears.

Roasted Capon with Vegetables

Dover Sole

Scallops in Velouté wit Purple Radish

I had been dining for nearly three hours by this point. During that time I had seen Chef Passard coming through the dining room, greeting guests -- some very casually, some more formally, but he made a point to spend time with each table. I could tell there were tables with people he knew very well. He would sit down and have an intimate conversation. Or lean in and share a joke. He was always moving, but never seemed in a rush. Then he would disappear back into the kitchen.

In between the beet tartare and the Dover Sole courses he stopped at my table. Here is where staff is so important. They had told him I was American. He came up and in English asked how my meal was. I told him I was having the experience of a lifetime and he beamed down at me. "I love my restaurant. I think making food with these kind of ingredients makes me the happiest." I assured him that I would remember this meal for a very long time. Then I asked If we could take a picture. "Of course!". He came around to my side of the table and...

Later when I looked at the picture (and saw I should have taken my damn glasses off) I realized that he was being slightly cheeky. It made me like him even more.

I had placed my order for the dessert soufflé earlier in the meal and was very excited to try it. Of course this being L'Arpege, there couldn't just be ONE dessert.

First there was a dessert board with small elephant ears, tuilles, house made caramels, and a chocolate/hazelnut bar. I tried every one and they were all amazing. Next came a mocha flavored floating island in a milk caramel sauce that would have been a perfect ending to any meal served anywhere.

The soufflé came and it was as good as I'd hoped. Light and delicious. This WAS the perfect end to my meal. I think. To be honest I was in in the throes of a food coma at this point. I know it was delicious.

Dessert Board

Mocha Floating Island in Milk Caramel Sauce

Soufflé

At last it was time for the meal to end. As I was leaving Chef Passard, who was sitting at another table, got up and came over to me. He gave me a huge hug and said, "Thank you so much for coming today. I hope you come back and see me again!" It was very special.

I was having a difficult time processing what I had experienced. It would be several hours before I could. I ended up cancelling my dinner at another highly rated restaurant. Mainly because I was ridiculously full, but also because it would have been hard to enjoy after such an experience.

All in all, my first full day in Paris was a complete triumph. I had a day that completely overloaded my senses. I had my first three-star Michelin experience (hopefully not my last), saw world famous art, and got the answer to the question, "Who is buried in Napoleon's tomb?" My trip was off to a screaming hot start. I couldn't wait to see what came next.

Wall Mural Outside Le Centre Pompidou, Le Marais.

The Neighborhood, THAT Sandwich, and All the Truffles.

A Confederacy of Lunches

February 10, 2018 by Troy Colbert

While seeing all the major sites in a city like Paris is admirable goal, you can get so caught up in things you "have to do" that you forget to stop, look around, and realize that you are in one of the great cities of the world. That city is home to over two million people who call Paris their home (I'm jealous of every single one of them by the way). Those people live in neighborhoods throughout the city called "arrondissements". There are 20 arrondissements in the city, starting with the 1st -- where the Louvre is -- and spiraling around like a snail shell out to the 20th.

Le Marais spreads over parts of the 3rd and 4th arrondissements on the right bank of the Seine River. Locals hang out in the Marais. It's home to the Jewish quarter, the Place des Vosges, the Picasso Museum, and the National Archives. It's where Jim Morrison lived and ultimately died. I fell in love with Le Marais when I was in Paris twelve years ago and my love has only grown stronger since.

Statue of Louis XIII, Place des Voges

Un Chat du Marais

July Column w/ Liberty Statue, Place de la Bastille

Produce Stall, Marche des Enfants Rouges, Le Marais

Le Marais, THAT sandwich, and all the truffles.

I arrived in Paris, got settled in to my temporary home, and set out to immerse myself in Le Marais. What I love about Le Marais, and ultimately Paris, is that you can walk pretty much everywhere. The streets in many areas meander, and because space is at such a premium you never know when or where you'll find a cool shop, a quaint cafe, a green space that's perfect for a break, a bit of architecture that blows you away, or a restaurant that everyone says you have to try.

Miznon -- 22 Rue Ecouffes. Le Marais.

I was on a particular mission my first afternoon in Paris. I was going to grab lunch at Miznon. Friends who have eaten there raved about the place. It's Israeli food with a French attitude.

The first thing I notice when I walk up is the line. It stretches halfway down the block. People are standing in a cold mist, talking to the folks next them, looking at their phones. No one seems to mind. I get in line and nod hello to the lady next to me. She greets me with a friendly "Bon jour!" I reply the same way and ask if she speaks English. She does and I ask if she's been here before. "Oh yes. At least once a week, sometimes more. Everything is good. Make sure you try the vegetables." I know I've chosen wisely.

I make my way inside. It's much steamier than outside. The space itself is small. Counter with a dozen seats and the prep and cooking areas behind it. A couple of small tables, one large communal table. What I also notice is the music. A steady stream of old school, west coast hip hop is thumping through the speakers. The place is full of families and as far as I can tell no one has a problem with the music or the language. I fall a little more in love with both Miznon and Paris.

I slowly but surely make my way to the counter to order. The menu is in French but between my pidgin French and the helpful dude behind the counter I order the sausage sandwich and the roasted head of cauliflower.

Sausage Sandwich -- Miznon

Roasted Cauliflower -- Miznon

The sandwich is amazing. It's smoky and succulent. The hummus is creamy and a perfect compliment. The bread is spectacular. It's unlike any pita I've ever had. It's light and fluffy and much more flavorful than what I've experienced before. I ask if they make it themselves and I'm told that it's flown in from Israel par baked and they finish it in the store. It's remarkable.

The cauliflower is something else entirely. An entire head of cauliflower roasted with only olive oil and salt. The vegetables in Europe taste better than vegetables here. Anthony Bourdain says it's all the dead Romans in the soil. I can't prove him wrong. With only salt, olive oil, and heat it's sweet and savory and all together wonderful. Yes, I ate the entire head of cauliflower. It was all I could do not to order another one.

Miznon was a perfect start to my Paris culinary adventure. They just opened a store in New York at the Chelsea Market. I'm planning a trip because of it. I'm totally serious.

Frenchie Wine Bar -- 6 Rue du Nil, Paris.

One of the downsides of the new wave of high quality, more sensibly priced restaurants is that it can be difficult getting a table -- even for one person. I tried unsuccessfully to score a reservation at hot spot Frenchie but it was a no go.

One of the cool things about this new wave of restaurants is their lack of pretension. Because these smaller places have a lower overhead, several of them have opened a satellite place very close by. To that end, across the narrow street/alley from Frenchie is Frenchie Wine Bar. Here you can get a scaled down version of the menu at the main restaurant, and you don't need a reservation.

I showed up at the appropriate time and scored a table right away. Luckily for me it was right next to the kitchen and I could watch the three-man team work their magic. I love experiences like this.

The Kitchen at Frenchie Wine Bar. It's tiny!

The menu might have been a scaled down version of the main restaurant but it was by no means uninspired. Chef Greg Marchand and his culinary team put together a menu that would impress anywhere.

I chose to go with the Roasted Brussels sprouts and parmesan aioli as a first course. I have learned to love Brussels sprouts, especially roasted. The roasting process sweetens them and takes a lot of the funkiness out of them. These were then covered, and I mean COVERED, with a thick layer of parmesan cheese. The salty cheese was the perfect counterpoint to the sweet, slightly charred sprouts. Simple and delicious.

The reason seasonal, farm-to-table cooking is so popular is because people appreciate eating dishes made with ingredients that are at the peak of their flavor. Summer gives you beautiful tomatoes, spring vegetables are always tender and sweet. January is black truffle season. This is a good thing. There are two dishes on the menu that feature black truffles. Violet artichokes, gnocchi, lardo, and black truffles and fresh tagliatelle with black truffles. I order them both because when am I going to get the opportunity to eat truffles like this again any time soon?

Brussels Sprouts with Parmesan Aioli

Violet Artichokes, Gnocchi, Lardo, Black Truffles

Fresh Tagliatelle with Black Truffles

The dish of tender artichokes, pillowy gnocchi, accentuated with the earthy black truffles was inspired. It just worked on every level.

The tagliatelle with truffles was just over the top decadence. I'm glad this was a small plate because a full plate would have been entirely too much for one person. The homemade pasta was perfectly chewy, the sauce was creamy and rich, and it was covered in black truffles. It was one of the most intense, delicious plates of pasta I've had in years, probably ever.

With a fabulous wine list, wonderful food, and service that is completely attentive but not overbearing, Frenchie Wine Bar is a place where I felt completely at home. It was a great reminder that sometimes the alternate plan is not a negative thing.

My first day in Paris saw me reacquaint myself with the Marais and have two completely different but equally delicious meals. Not bad for a start.